I have the original "jobcard" from Lotus showing that on 05 December 1970, the U.S.A. kit passed inspection at the factory and consisted of # LS4/2925 GT with the GT scratched out and TC written in. The jobcard included a Ford gearbox with standard ratios, heater, tonneau, Goodyear G800 165SR13 tires, chassis "GE-151" (made by Griston Engineering) standard fuel tank, yellow gel coat and Brand Lotus wheels. I have the original receipt from Lotus Central in Livonia, Michigan where the original owner bought the kit on 17 September 1971. The original receipt shows LS4 2925 TC, thus, a Twin Cam engine in the kit. The original bonnet, unaltered and still on the car, has the Twin Cam air scoop. He constructed it himself. The original owner registered the car in 1997 with the Lotus 7 Club of Great Britain who added from his copy of the jobcard that the body number is "306."

This Seven was used in the early 70's as an autocross car, running in AP. This was back when a "stock" Seven was still competitive. The car won a couple of divisional championships and finished 2nd at the nationals in 1976. The original owner did not want to chop it up to make it competitive as the rules changed from year to year. He wanted to keep it street legal.

He did replace the original standard ratio 4 speed transmission with a "close ratio" 4 speed that was a new box that Champion Spark Plug used on their engine testing dyno. It had never been put into a car previously.

At some point, he replaced the original Big Valve Twin Cam with a used Europa JPS Big Valve Twin Cam. The engine has always used a little oil and it does smoke a little but both are typical for a Twin Cam. The head was serviced in 1996/7 and the guides and valves were checked. The valves were adjusted in 2010. Everything is in spec.

It has never been wrecked other than some slight damage to the right front wing that was repaired years ago. As with all fiberglass cars it had developed a number of stress cracks (some of which were factory original).

In 1996/7, he stripped it down. The body was removed and the frame completely cleaned and repainted. The frame has been stiffened with some triangulation (Ortenburger's book, for reference). The frame is not rusted. The body stress cracks were ground out, repaired with fiberglass repair and repainted "new" Elan yellow. This is not the original school bus yellow gel coat and I like it better. He also painted the lower sheet metal sides yellow at this time rather than the original black. I think it looks great. All the fasteners are stainless steel. He replaced the rear shocks with SPAX adjustable shocks when he had it apart. All metalastic bushings were replaced at that time also. There are rubber snubbers glued next to the headlights to cushion the assembly and the subsequent paint damage from the lights hitting the wings. He made lexan side screens using the existing mounts on the windscreen. They are not as effective as leaving the doors on, but do cut down on the wind quite a lot. The bonnet disconnect was improved significantly by installing quick disconnect hardware and electrical connections. He also installed a race-approved electrical kill switch where the roll bar enters the body behind the passenger"s head.

The seats are factory original, have no tears, and have never needed repair. The original 4 point seat belt harnesses are fitted. The top is original and in excellent shape. The rear window is as clear as the day it was new (If you take care of them they will last). The polish I use on the rear window is the Meguiar"s two part formula; Mirror Glaze #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner and #10 Clear Plastic Polish. An alternative to the two-step cleaner is Maguiar's Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner/Polish #18. I have both original tonneau covers, which are in excellent condition. Currently the car has a cardboard divider covered with naugahyde by the battery. I have the original but it has warped with age and I just stored it away.

This is a very nice driving car. It is not harsh like a SII or SIII. It is windy without the side curtains, but it is fast and predictable. In short it is everything you should expect in a Seven. As far as I am concerned, the SIV is the best driving Seven built. As for fitting in the car, I am 6'1" with size 13's. There is definitely more foot room and leg room than an SII.

It has never been driven in bad weather. It has been stored in a climate controlled shop/garage or my home garage.

The mileage on the speedo is 39,365 and to my knowledge this is the actual mileage. I bought it with 35,440 miles in 2001.

All the instruments work. I had noticed the ammeter did not show a lot of charge at various times, but the battery has always had a full charge. The light bulb for the ammeter has been out. Dave Bean has the light bulbs. The tach was replaced about 1995 because the old one seemed to have an intermittent short in it, and the car would just stop. The oil pressure gauge was serviced about 1998.

It has twin Webers 40DCOEs that are newly rebuilt. I do not have the original air box for the carbs nor the hose. I do have the original big "air filter." I use a Pipercross PX 600 Twin Side Draft Carb air filter, # PIPC602D. I do not have the cold start mechanisms or jets; they are blocked off with plates. To start the car, pump the throttle five or six times and it fires off on the first or second try.

I replaced the engine front oil seal (crankshaft nose), the oil pan gasket, and the rear seal in 2002. I had a complete tune-up with new points and spark plugs as well as timing check about 500 miles ago.

The clutch and pressure plate and throw out bearing are new about 500 miles ago.

I replaced the reverse gear, the spur gear that engages on the lay shaft, and the spur gear on the synchronizer ring in 2002. Everything else in the box looked fine with normal wear. Semi-close and close ratio boxes are hard to find. Once in a while someone will list one in Lotus ReMarque, but that is rare. Gaskets, bearing, and seals are readily obtainable. Dave Bean and JAE have them. Bearings can be obtained locally at the local NAPA store. Quafe makes an all-synchro straight cut gearset, but the straight cut gears are noisy.

The rear axle is original and the differential has the 4.11 ratio.

It has single brake (new) and clutch master cylinders. It has a new brake cylinder, all new pads front and all new shoes rear and uses silicone brake fluid. All brake lines are new.

The tires are BF Goodrich P175/70R13 82S M+S Control T/A M65; new as of about 1000 miles ago. An original and functioning G800 Goodyear is the spare.

Car has original gas tank in perfect condition. The mechanical fuel pump is new. There was an electric fuel pump installed and I replaced it (for some unknown stupid reason) with a new mechanical pump.

The improved lube oil pump wiht canister (spin on) lube oil filter holder is new. I had been using Quaker State 20 W 50 Deluxe but recently changed to Valvoline 20 W 50 VR1.

The improved water pump is new.

A new all weather car cover comes with the car.

I have a set of pedal extensions. On the pedals, there are holes with nuts welded behind. The extensions screw in.

The coil is mounted next to the radiator on the right. It is rectangular and says Mallory on it. Sometimes the bonnet rubs the lead when you open it. According to the Mallory instructions, do not remove the ballast resistor from the circuit. It was replaced in 2004. If you need the correct ballast resistor for the coil, you should be able to get a replacement Mallory unit at most speed shops. A second resistor, exactly like the one over the coil, is on the firewall on the passenger side.

The ignition runs through the tach. There is a voltage stabilizer attached to the tach linked to both the temp gauge and fuel gauge. It was replaced in 2002. The voltage stabilizer is fastened to the back of the tach. It has three wires attached; #1 is a ground wire (attached to the single lug [black]; #2 is a green wire which is the hot wire providing current for the tach, & oil pressure gauge. It comes directly from the fuse box; #3 is a light green wire to provide power to the water temp gauge, and the fuel gauge. If that's defective, it will deactivate both gauges. It will not affect the lights. All the dash lights are on one circuit.